Brasserie De La Senne has made its name with beers such as Taras Boulba and Zinnebir. Complex, bitter beers underpinned by balance, subtlety and nuance. For Yvan De Baets, co-founder of the Brussels brewery, these are the beers he wants to make and enjoy. He just wishes more brewers would do the same.

There are certain beers that belong at the high-table of modern brewing. Beers that form part of a patchwork that command appreciation from drinkers across the globe.

Taras Boulba is one such beer. The 4.5% session blonde is generously hopped with the finest aromatic hops, resulting in a refreshing spicy character and a scent reminiscent of citrus.

Beers such as Taras Boulba and Zinnebir, its venerable Belgian style Pale Ale, define what Brasserie De La Senne is about. Unfiltered, unpasteurised output characterised by bitterness. A facet that inspired De Baets and co-founder Bernard Leboucq to brew beers they could no longer find on the market.

They explain: “Bitterness is the key characteristic of our beers: it is their foundation. We have produced bitter beers since the beginning of our existence – and we are here to brew bitter beers!

“Our approach was simple: we wanted to brew beers to our liking that we could no longer find on the market. We took on the challenge to bring this flavour – so fundamental in the evolution of human societies but sadly neglected in our modern societies – up to date.”

Six years on, De Baets, who is speaking at next month’s Brewers Congress in London, believes that bitterness is still severely lacking in the broader brewing landscape and he wants that to change. 

“Too many brewers are listening to the beer geeks, they should listen to themselves and to their hearts. And for me, that means bitterness,” says De Baets. “Too many brewers are desperately trying to follow trends and make beers that garner social media attention. There seems to be an obligation to make New England IPAs and let’s be honest, there are many brewers that do not enjoy making those beers. It doesn’t feel normal for everyone wanting to make and drink one type of beer.”

He adds: “We prefer to try and open the consumers’ mind, making the beers we like and to try and convince them of those qualities, too.

“When we started out, had we followed the local market we’d only be making Tripels. Too many young brewers make beer without ever thinking what they want, and instead what others want. That can be stupid.

“If that’s your approach then you start running and you’ll never finish running. It can be good to settle down. The best breweries are those with a vision and take on the challenge to change consumer opinions. Your personality should be in each beer you make.”

Image: The Crafty Pint