Beer is no-longer for ‘beer drinkers’, with customers becoming as diverse as the breweries themselves, explains Clodagh Sherrard on behalf of Welsh Drinks Cluster’s Beer and Cider Group.
Setting aside the blatant sexism, the concept that “beer is a man’s drink” is factually incorrect. The fact is that women have not only been enjoying beer for as long as men, originally brewing was a female driven occupation.
So, the question today is why, in a time where the recent craft beer renaissance has seen new generations discover a love for ales and beers of every description, does the concept of a female brewer seem less likely?
Many in the industry might say that industry stereotypes bear no relations to the reality of the modern brewing industry. To explore this issue, we talk to four leading female experts from the growing Welsh beer industry, to see how common perceptions compare the real-world experiences.
For Pam Honeyman, founder, director and head brewer at Monty’s Brewery in Montgomery, gender is irrelevant when it comes to keeping ahead of the competition.
“When we started out in 2009, we were the 27th brewery in Wales, fast forward to 2020 and now there’s well over 100 breweries offering so many different beers, she says. “And that’s just in Wales, let alone the rest of the UK.
“The competition is fiercer than it ever has been, meaning you’ve got to make a premium product that packs a punch and leaves people wanting more. I feel like that is what we’ve got here at Monty’s.”
Honeyman’s decision to found Monty’s came after she completed a brewing course in 2008. She knew that there was a growing demand in the area for local real ales and wondered if her love of cooking would be transferable.
Fast forward a decade and Monty’s have created a range of beers that has seen Monty’s become an integral part of its community. And, when it comes to making beer, it’s the quality of the product, not the gender of the brewer that customers care about.
She continues: “I do experiment with our beers looking for trends, and our gluten free range was part of that process, I always aim to brew beers you’ll want another pint of. I would describe our beer as traditional, but with a modern twist.
“Our multi-award-winning golden ale, Sunshine, is packed with floral and citrus aromas and is our most popular signature brew and was a Finalist Champion Beer of Britain in 2019.
“I get quite frustrated around these supposed gender roles within the industry, I would say it’s less about gender now and more about the quality of your product – that is what’s important. If you haven’t got a premium product then it’s a tough market to stay in.
“Yes, of course I am in the minority as a woman and also a head brewer, there are just more men in this industry, but if anything it’s a lot of fun to challenge the stereotypes and break them down.”
Brewing has been part of Wales’ rich history and culture since the time of the druids where breweries were founded to meet the demands of the industrial revolution, when beer was cleaner than water.
The rise of modern Welsh brewing can be seen across the nation, with new craft breweries joining already established producers all over the Principality. However, many established breweries are finding new audiences through social media by allowing them to hear what customers are asking for and provide new products to that meet the demand.
Becky Morrison grew up in the beer industry. Today, she works alongside her family as the marketing and e-commerce manager at Swansea-based Tomos Watkin Brewery.
Morrison says: “There is always some surprise by men and women alike that Tomos Watkin is run by a mother, daughter and auntie team. While I would say it is a pleasant surprise, you can’t deny the general assumption that the chief executive of a brewery is going to be male. I don’t think that’s specifically because we make beer, it is the same across many industries.
“We’ve just got to be part of the driving force to change the stereotypes and push the boundaries. At the end of the day, we’re brewers and enjoying our high-quality beers is what our customers care about.”
As the brewery’s marketing manager, Becky says that her job is about listening to her customers as much as it is to tell them about Tomos Watkin’s products. She believes that social media is allowing more people to voice their opinions on the products available and crucially, what they want from brands.
“Women have always drunk beer. It would be terribly narrow-minded to think or say that women didn’t, don’t or won’t drink beer,” says Morrison. “I think what has changed is the way women engage with beer – from a social media point of view, I see and engage with so many more women who are reviewing or reacting to our beers. Social media has given a solid platform for women (and men) to share their ideas, talk about beer and respond to the industry.”
Balancing innovation, while staying true to the products your customers love, is a fine line to tread. At Tomos Watkin the key is listening to customers, however they wish to be heard.
She continues: “Tomos Watkin is a traditional brand with a loyal customer base, but we’re not afraid to collaborate and develop new beers that keep us relevant. We have new and seasonal cask beers released each month.
“One of our most recent collaborations is with Afan Coffee, a local speciality roaster, where we produced a vegan-friendly Espresso Stout. None of our beers are developed specifically with men or women in mind, instead we focus on developing high-quality products for those who appreciate good beer.”
It’s easy to think that the task of making an exceptional ale is the sole responsibility of the brewer, but the fact is that it’s a team effort to keep a brewery’s lights on and the barrels moving. At Grey Trees Brewery in Aberdare, much of that work falls to co-director, Tracey Kerslake-Davies.
“Grey Trees Brewery was created from the passion my husband had for brewing, but with my help we’ve turned a start-up micro-brewery into a credible and sustainable business. So, while I may not brew the product, I ensure that we still have a brewery to run,” she says.
Like all passionate craftspeople, Tracey’s team say they focus on making good products that speak for themselves and should be enjoyed by all.
Kerslake-Davies adds: “As independent craft brewers, I’d say we like to challenge ourselves to make new exciting beers and ales but ensuring that we stick to the traditions of brewing. I’ve never really felt like we’ve needed to market our beer specifically to women – we always made the assumption that our beer would be enjoyed by both genders. One of our favoured ales is the Afghan Pale Ale which has a sort of tropical aroma, and it won Silver Supreme Champion of Britain 2019.
“Our focus was more about distinguishing our beer apart from the other products on the market rather than appealing to one gender or another. Our packaging reflects that, being black and white, it’s quite neutral in colour as well as design.”
Emma Lockett, brewery manager at Porthmadog’s Purple Moose Brewery is part of a team that has been securing regional, national and international awards for over a decade. In her opinion, consistent quality products are driving the rise of the beer industry in Wales industry above anything else.
“There’s no denying that the industry is still male orientated, but there are many more women involved in brewing and the industry as a whole than many would assume,” says Lockett. “Personally, I’d still like to see a shift to a better gendered balance, but our sector is not exclusive by any means. Opportunities exist whatever your gender. At the end of the day, if you have the interest and the passion, then you need to just go for it.”
According to Lockett the changes that have led to the growth of Welsh brewing and brewing across the UK in general are the result of people becoming aware and interested in exploring quality beers.
Lockett explains: “I don’t think an increase in female drinkers has much do to with the changes we’re seeing in Wales and across the UK. In fact, there has always been a high level of interest in beer from women. The true catalyst for change is the younger generation.
“Across the board, people have changed their drinking habits, they are more aware of what they are consuming, so they choose higher quality beers over mass produced products that were the only option not so long ago.
“We have a beer for whatever kind of drinker you are. Our signature brew is our Snowdonia Ale, it’s a fine golden ale that is refreshing and full flavour making it wonderfully drinkable and popular with traditionalists. But, for those looking for a more adventurous craft beer, we launched options like Chocolate Moose, Mwsh (a Kolsch-style lager) and Antlered IPA. It’s unlikely we’d ever create a beer with either men or women in mind, they’re just made for people who like good beer.”
If one thing is clear, it’s that quality beer speaks for itself. Sometimes stereotypes exist in the minds of those outside an industry simply because customers focus on beer that they like, at most they register the name of the brewery itself. But, we live in a time where perceptions of beer are changing at large.
Beer is no-longer for ‘beer drinkers’, with customers becoming as diverse as the breweries themselves. Nowhere is this truer than Wales, where concerted effort is being made to promote Welsh breweries to customers and on-trade alike.
